Today (NØ) invites you to discover the very traditional technique of goldwork…

Goldwork is a fine and meticulouse technique of needle embroidery traditionally used to attire liturgic, military and royal clothes and objects. Nowadays, it is used in Haute-Couture, luxury watchmaking, design and interior decoration.

Broderie Or Militaire
Military goldwork, Atelier des Grenadières.
Constellation of 69 Bees by Guerlain
Traditional 69 Bees pattern by Guerlain.
Broderie or, détail.
Détail of a goldwork embroidery piece executed by the Atelier du Bégonia d’Or in Rochefort.

Each of the noble materials as the gold and silver threads, the smooth or check purls, the thin leather, the beads and glas tubes, the metallic sequins, the broad plates or the couching threads used in this particular technique are applyed onto the fabric in a specific way.
Historically embroidered on velvet, silk or linen-cotton blends, the modern embroidery can be executed on a larger range of materials (organza, leather, plastic…)

Goldwork Materials
Check purls, pearl purl wire, leather and couching threads by Sarah Homfray.
Goldwork Supplies
Specific thread, bees Wax, Melor, scissor and felt… The essentials set used in goldwork by Sarah Homfray.

The most important stitches used in goldwork are :
– the couching with the “Point de Boulogne”, to apply one or many threads to thick to pass through the fabric using a thinner thread.
– the satin-stitch, often embroidered on thin felt, cotton threads or cardboard paddings to create relief.
– the stem-stitch and the bullion-stitch.
– the “or nué”, very specific technique used since the Middle-Age, to create shaded backgrounds.
To go back to the basic of embroidery stiches, have a look here et there

Here are two goldwork embroideries from Violaine Thel’s Portfolio.

Broderie Or Portfolio
Alchemy… Transforming matter to gold, etching and textil tatoo.
©2019 Violaine Thel / All Rights Reserved
Dyeing, painting on silk, overstretched purl wire and fluorescent core, smooth purl, gold beads, couching and counted-stitches.
©2019 Violaine Thel / All Rights Reserved
Traditional goldwork embroidery, oxydated purl wire, check and smooth purls on paddings, leather, backstitch and couching on cotton blend.
©opyright 2019 Violaine Thel / All Rights Reserved

That’s already the end of our travel… (NØ) wishes you a nice weekend and hope to see you very soon to continue our bright adventures!

To go further on our journey, below are the website links mentionned on the article:
L’atelier des Grenadières
L’atelier du Begonia d’or
Sarah Homfray

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